Not sure which key you need?

Three quick checks — key type, button count, and part number — and you'll know exactly which key to order.

Shell or ready-to-code?

Shell only · no electronics

1. Buy a shell if your key still works

Buttons, casing or blade cracked? Move your existing chip, circuit board and battery into a brand-new shell. No programming required.

Lock/unlock still works
Original electronics intact
Purely cosmetic / durability upgrade

Ready to code · internals included

Buy ready-to-code if you've lost it or it's dead

A complete key with circuit board and transponder inside. An auto-locksmith cuts the blade and programs it to your car.

Key lost, stolen or non-responsive
You want a spare
Needs cutting + coding by a locksmith

Count the buttons

2. Look at your current key and count the physical buttons — including the boot / tailgate button and any panic button. The replacement must have the same layout.

Common counts: 2, 3, 4, 5 buttons.

Check the FCC ID or part number

3. Prise the key open carefully with a plastic tool. On the back of the circuit board (or moulded into the shell) you'll usually find:

FCC ID — e.g. KR55WK49264. Regulatory identifier for the radio.
OEM part number — e.g. 8P0837220D. Printed on the board or inside the shell.
Frequency — 433 MHz (Europe/UK) or 315 MHz (US). Match this exactly.

Cross-check either number against the product title or description. When in doubt, email us a photo of the back of your key and we'll confirm the fit.